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A tunnel of ducks
(image source: Wikimedia Commons) |
For the life of me, I just don't understand why more Americans do not
love duck. For me, it is the best fowl. The meat is rich and flavorful,
and when cooked right, far surpasses turkey or chicken. Yet only the
Chinese seem to have the proper reverence for this game bird.
I used to be afraid of cooking duck. I knew that duck was fatty, which
is off-putting to most. Yet duck is also lean (more on that below), and
if you overcook duck, it becomes fantastically unappetizing. But when
cooked right, duck is divine.
My most memorable Thanksgiving was 2011, when my brother and
sister-in-law came to visit us in Iowa. Instead of turkey, we roasted a
duck. And that night, we all marveled how wonderfully delectable duck
is. It was rich and luxurious; exactly what is warranted on a special
day.
Most who complain about duck say it is too fatty. True, duck has a thick
layer of blubber that is absent on chicken or turkey. But duck is
waterfowl. That layer of fat keeps ducks buoyant and warm in frigid
waters. "So what," you say, "Fat is fat."
Not true. Duck fat is not like beef or pork fat. Nor is it like butter.
Yes, it is saturated. But the molecular structure of duck fat is closer
to olive oil than the other animal fats. It is still a saturated fat,
mind you; but it is not as unhealthy as butter or pork.
Besides, folks who complain about duck being too fatty have not eaten
duck prepared properly. Duck is best cooked under searing heats, which
renders the fat from the muscle. When cooking a duck leg or breast,
chefs heat a skillet to smoking hot temperatures. They then sear the
duck meat fat side down, to ensure that thick subcutaneous layer melts
away. What you are left with is a crispy "skin" that is significantly
lighter in calories than the full layer of fat. And out-of-this-world
tasty. Think fried chicken skin is yummy? Try seared duck skin.
Duck is marvelous many ways. But to truly appreciate its flavor, I
advocate for a simply prepared bird. I like duck breasts, seasoned with
nothing more than salt and pepper, pan seared and then oven finished. I
pair this with a good potato (fried in the rendered duck fat), rosemary
and/or thyme, and a nice pinot noir.
Pan Seared Duck Breast with Rosemary Potatoes
INGREDIENTS
4 duck breasts
6 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 yellow onion, sliced
2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves stripped
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
PREPARATION
Score fat on each duck breast in a criss-cross pattern. Season each
breast with liberal amounts of salt and pepper, and set aside.
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Fill a large stock pot with cold water and add salt and potatoes. Bring
to a boil and cook potatoes until just barely tender. Drain potatoes and
set aside.
Heat oven to 400 degrees. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat
with about 2 Tbsp olive oil. Once the oil begins to smoke, add duck
breasts, fat side down. Sear breasts for about 6 minutes, or until fat
is rendered. Flip breasts and sear another 3-4 minutes.
Remove breasts from skillet and place in a casserole dish. Cook in oven until medium-rare, another 6 minutes or so.
Meanwhile, cook onion and parboiled potatoes in the rendered duck fat.
Season with salt, pepper, and rosemary and cook an additional two to
three minutes.
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Remove duck breasts from oven. Serve whole or sliced with a sprig of fresh rosemary and the potatoes.
